Aren’t these the cutest? They are also called “bánh trôi nước”. Bánh is the Vietnamese word for most things made with flour, trôi means float, and nước means water. These lovely sweets get their name from the fact that they are cooked in water and float up to the surface when they are ready.
They are made (mostly) from glutinous rice flour, which creates a nice and chewy texture- similar to Japanese mochi. The filling is pure, unrefined cane sugar that comes in large blocks. It is called “đường phên” in Vietnamese and is also incredibly popular in Latin America (we found it in the Latin American section of our local international grocery store as “Panela”). It has a beautiful earthy, caramel-like flavor that is much more complex than what you get with processed sugar.
I would not recommend using other types of sugars. I have seen some recipes suggest palm sugar – “đường thốt nốt” as an alternative. Palm sugar has other great uses, but in my experience, cane sugar is far superior and works much better for this dessert- both in terms of flavor and texture. The cane sugar will soften but not completed melted, providing a nice crunch to contrast with the softness of the dough.
This version of bánh trôi is from the North of Vietnam. In the southern region, there is a similar dessert of the same name (“Chè trôi nước”), but with a mung bean paste filling instead (which the North calls “bánh chay”).
Hồ Xuân Hương – who was considered one of the country’s greatest poets in the late 18th-early 19th century- wrote a beautiful poem titled “Bánh trôi” – which used this dessert as a metaphor for the life of a woman:
Thân em vừa trắng, lại vừa tròn
Bảy nổi ba chìm với nước non
Rắn nát mặc dầu tay kẻ nặn
Mà em vẫn giữ tấm lòng son.
My very rough, non-poetic translation:
My body is pale, as well as round
Floats seven times and sinks thrice with the nation
Tough or soft is in the hand of the shaper
But I still keep my scarlet center.
The poem talks about a beautiful woman who is living through a tumultuous time in her country. Even though her fate is not in her own hands, she never loses her character and who she is.